In my early years as a vegetarian, times when tofu was only obtainable at some seedy "Import Store" I would have died and thought I'd gone to heaven purchasing a copy of Tamasin Noyes' "American Vegan Kitchen." When the publisher, Jon Robertson of "Vegan Heritage Press" sent me the book, I have to admit, skimming through the many comfort food recipes had me salivating with memories of what it was like to drive long distance across the United States many years ago and experience so many "highway counters" and so many interesting (but always really tasty) "homespun" meals. This was well before the rise of "fast food restaurant" standardization that directly caused the demise of many "Mom'n'Pop" local cafes, "Blue Plate Special" truck stops, and the unfortunate loss of a lot of dynamic regional diversity in the art of cooking.
Tamasin has done a wonderful job of not only recreating much of the unique cultural aspects of many of the local cuisines and dishes from our childhoods (and indeed, American history), she's managed to do it with considerable creativity and fun. Such recipes as "Sweet and Crunchy French Toast, "Three-Chile Hummus," "Seitan on a Shingle" (ask your grandfather!), "Cajun Pot Pie," and "Lime-Avocado Cream in Puff Pasty," demonstrate an impressive spectrum of ability and recipes, let alone, one that's vegan. Providing plenty of helpful tips such as basic recipes on making seitan, spice blends, a page of cooking resources, she even identifies which vegan beers are appropriate IN some of her recipes!
Written with a fun style, it's clear that Tamasin loves what she's doing and the enthusiasm is infectious. There's even a two page list of unusual holidays (like, "National Oatmeal Day") where she playfully suggests one of her recipes for each to help in the celebration.
I don't want readers to think that all the recipes (and there are over 200) are exotic. Ms. Noyes also covers many of the basic comfort foods like hamburgers, pot pies, fruit cobblers/pies, creamed corn, tuna casseroles, slaws, and even gyros. Heck, if you chose to cook a meal for friends using some of her recipes, they may imagine that they are in a Daily Diner and ask you for the check...
Those interested in more of Tamasin's work should definitely check out her blog (here). Even though I'm not as much into comfort food as I once was, I still find her recipes most interesting and worth exploring. People with special dietary preferences, say, low fat, will have to adjust some recipes or use baking instead of frying, but I wouldn't for a minute suggest that such should keep you from checking out a fine addition to the vegan cookbook universe. Another star has shown up.
Here's a recipe that reminds me of the periodic meatloaf my mother or grandmother would make for me, only Tamasin gives it a Southwestern sensibility. Just reading it was enough to bring smile to my face, and that's always welcome. Thank you, Ms. Noyes!
(serves 4)
1/2 cup hot water
8 ounces Savory Seitan
1 chipotle chile in adobo
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 cup minced onion
1/2 cup minced green bell pepper
1 tablespoon minced jalapeno
2 close garlic, minced
2 teaspoons dried oregano
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon chili powder
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 teaspoon browning sauce, optional
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1/2 cup corn kernels, fresh or frozen, thawed if frozen
1/2 cup vital wheat gluten
1/3 cup ketchup
2. Combine the seitan and chipotle in a food processor. Process until ground. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.
3. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion. Cook 3 to 4 minutes. Add the bell pepper, jalapeno, garlic, oregano, cumin, chili powder, coriander, and smoked paprika.
4. Cook about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft. Transfer to the seitan bowl. Add the remaining ingredients, and the reserved rehydrated texturized vegetable protein. Knead the ingredients together well, squeezing and kneading, for about 5 minutes.
5. Transfer to a baking sheet and shape into a 4x8 inch oval loaf. Bake for 1 hour. After 30 minutes, check to see if it is browning too much. If so, cover with foil for the remaining baking time. Let sit 5 minutes before serving.
Note: this recipe is ©2010 by Tamasin Noyes.
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